1. Change oil and filter.  Even oil that has been under limited use holds in suspension combustion chamber by-products and moisture that has entered through the crankcase breather.  This mixture creates corrosive activity inside your dormant engine.  In some cases eating away at bearing material.  Also to consider, lots of vintage cars with carb/choke systems often are subject to extended enrichment during warm up. The excess fuel that isn’t fully burned or expelled “slips” down the cylinder walls, thinning the protective oil film on the cylinder walls, increasing ring wear and that excess fuel can also eventually dilute the engine oil.

2. Antifreeze- first confirm that the protection level is sufficient (minus 25 to minus 35 degrees usually indicates a mixture of 50/50 antifreeze/water), but also, how does the antifreeze look?  Clear, cloudy?  Is anything floating in or on it?  Antifreeze does lose its ability to protect against internal corrosion as the anti-corrosive protection components are leached out.   This puts older engines at risk, as internal corrosive activity accelerates, eating metal and gaskets, pitting surfaces, causing leaks and overheating.  Since matter can’t be destroyed or created, that corroded material that “breaks” away becomes deposited in radiators, heater cores, thermostat housings and coolant passages within the engine. Antifreeze should be changed every few years to replenish the lost anti-corrosive protective properties.

3. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it absorbs and retains moisture.  Atmospheric moisture is introduced through the vent cap on the master cylinder.  If the brake fluid (and clutch fluid, if your clutch is hydraulically activated) isn’t changed every few years, the increased moisture that is absorbed into the brake fluid causes internal corrosion in the hydraulic brake and clutch components.   This leads to fluid leaks past seals or binding of the brake caliper pistons.  If enough moisture is absorbed, it can effectively reduce the boiling point of brake fluid, diminishing brake performance and safety.

4. Battery life is greatly diminished if it’s not recharged regularly.  As the battery “sits” and discharges the sulfuric acid in the electrolyte bonds with the lead plates inside the battery’s cells.  This bonding, called sulfation, increases the battery’s internal resistance and if left long enough on the plates becomes brittle, permanently weakening the battery’s ability to “create” electricity from its electro-chemical activity.   Charging the battery with a professional charger on low, or a trickle charger gently drives the sulfate off the lead plates, back into the electrolyte, reducing the battery’s resistance, allowing the electro-chemical process to return to normal and not overtaxing the alternators ability to recharge the battery.

5. Tires: Set tire pressure and, if you’re not putting your car up on jack stands, at least move (or roll) the car every few weeks to prevent “flat spots” from occurring.  As tires age, flexibility diminishes, tires are at a greater risk to be permanently ruined if left on one spot.

6. Lubrication – Grease or lube everything you can, not only the suspension grease fittings, but a shot of some lube or penetrant on door, hood, trunk hinges, trunk latches, throttle linkages.  Spray some rubber silicone lube on door, trunk and hood seals.  And while you are at it, silicone spray the window channel seals too, something that will help reduce wear and tear, not only on your window regulator but also on your arms.

7. Start the car up – but let it warm up fully (off choke as soon as possible).  Vary the RPM’s, don’t let it just idle.  Oil pressure is at its lowest at idle and moving parts are at exposure to metal to metal contact if your engine’s oil pressure is on the weak side.  Drive it if you can – at least around the block – it keeps suspension bushings, shocks, clutch, fan belts and brake parts from taking “a set” – causing parts or pattern distortions or wear, rust build up on contact/friction surfaces.   It’s like exercising – “Use it or lose it”.

Note: If you’re not going to start the engine – at least rotate it manually so the piston rings aren’t sitting in the same position of contact with the cylinder walls.

8.  Fuel – Depending on what you do with the car during the winter and where you store it, options vary.

a) Fill the tank 7/8 full and add a storage stabilizer – amount consistent with manufacturer instructions.  OR:

b) Drain all the fuel

9.  Cosmetic Care –

a) Wash it, including underneath and inside wheel wells, anywhere dirt gets trapped.

b) Wax it.

c) Soft, breathable car cover for inside storage

d) Unfortunately, there is no such thing as “good” outside storage.

10)  Repair and Service: Does your vehicle need repairs from this seasons use?  Make a list while it’s fresh in your mind.  Get acomprehensive Safety and Maintenance Inspection.  Either do it yourself or get one done at a garage (like ours) familiar with these vehicles and that provides you with a written report.  Know what your car needs.  Make informed choices about what to fix on your car. Consider winter a great time to do those repairs.  That way your car will be ready in the spring.  Have fun and get in all the driving event time you can rather than waiting for springtime backordered parts and backlogged garages.

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT YOUR VINTAGE CAR, PLEASE DON’T HESITATE TO CALL ME – DAVID CARDONE AT CARDONE & DAUGHTER AUTOMOTIVE: 860-664-0727